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• SHOCK COLLARS – THE UGLY TRUTH
• WALK ME SLIP HARNESS: TRAIN & RESTRAIN WITHOUT PAIN
• TRAIN WITHOUT PAIN OR FEAR
• THE ALPHA SYNDROME – ABOUT LEADERSHIP AND RANK ORDER IN DOGS
• AVSAB - POSITION STATEMENT ON THE USE OF DOMINANCE THEORY
• LOOKING FOR A DOG TRAINER - HSUS WARNS BEWARE OF ABUSIVE TRAINING METHODS
• BCSPCA - UNDERSTANDING CANINE BEHAVIOR
• THE BEST FRIENDS ANIMAL SOCIETY-RELATIONSHIP BASED TRAINING
• PETA - ELECTRONIC FENCES

SHOCK COLLARS – THE UGLY TRUTH

by Valerie Barry, Professional Dog Trainer, North Vancouver

From the perspective of a competent and knowledgeable dog trainer, training with shock collars is one of the worst methods ever introduced as “training” that continues to persist with alarming intensity.

Shock collars are marketed to unsuspecting pet dog owners as a “quick fix” for serious behavioural issues as well as a fast way to “train” your dog. The perception seems to be that if you’ve tried everything else and nothing worked, this will fix your problem. Or if you have a big or “difficult” breed, you need some serious equipment to “control” or “dominate” them. Nothing could be further from the truth, and this whole way of thinking is inaccurate and dangerous. We have come leaps and bounds along the road in understanding dogs – how they think and how they learn – in the past 15 or so years. Science has clearly proven that punishment based methods of training like shock collars (prong collars, choke collars, drowning, choking, dominating, correcting, etc.) do not work as “training” and have some very serious side effects.

If science doesn’t interest you, how about results? Again, it’s been researched, tested, proven and documented that positive reinforcement training is faster, more efficient, and has longer term retention – something punishment methods cannot accurately claim. Better yet, positive reinforcement promotes good mental health for your dog – it allows them to think, puzzle out solutions, safely offer various behaviours as options, gain confidence and create desirable end behaviours that are happily performed and last a lifetime. Confidence is an important skill for dogs - isn’t that true for all of us? A confident dog knows what is expected of him in all the circumstances that are important to you and he will perform his skills reliably. Problem behaviours can be extinguished (or prevented from ever occurring) and new behaviours can take their place.

Punishment, by definition, suppresses behaviour. Shock collars are punishment. Therefore, shock collars do not eliminate behaviour – they suppress it – very big difference. Behaviours that are suppressed are still there and they are still getting reinforced because the things that cause them are still there too. If the punishment that is causing the behaviours to be suppressed is removed (you’re not holding the remote), temporarily unavailable (batteries are dead) or inexpertly applied (some small child gets hold of the remote and starts zapping away) - what do you think might happen? The scary part is that you never really know – think about that statement: “you never really know what’s going to happen” - whew. You might get lucky and nothing happens or you might not be so lucky. Of course, society also finds it horrifically easy to “get rid” of “bad” dogs when things go horribly wrong and simply start again with another one - how sad, how inexcusable and how irresponsible. How easily preventable.

99.9% of behavioural problems, mild or serious, have their basis in fear and anxiety. You simply cannot punish fear-based behaviours in order to eliminate them. More often than not, you still end up having the same behaviours and you’ve now made them much worse or you’ve caused the fear to spread to other things or events. Fear generalizes very quickly. When you use a shock collar, you are applying a piece of equipment that itself causes fear and anxiety to a behaviour that is rooted in fear and anxiety – that just makes no logical sense -it has no chance of working well. You absolutely must work, instead, to alleviate that fear and create alternatives for the dog – it’s the only way that’s effective – it’s the only way that's humane.

Here’s a human example of punishment and fear: If you’re afraid of spiders and every time you see one you scream and I shock you until you stop, does that make you feel less afraid when you see the next one? Honestly imagine a similar scenario with a fear you have. The answer is obvious – the shock did not make your fear go away - not at all. You may learn to suppress your reaction to spiders when I’m around in order to avoid the shock, but the underlying emotion behind the reaction is still there. Not only that, but you now have to worry about me when spiders are around, which will increase your fear in general and maybe create a fear or discomfort of me. It’s also extremely likely that your reaction to spiders will increase even when I’m not around and you’re free to scream without consequence.

And none of this is fun. None of this is informative and helpful communication – it’s bullying and it’s forced submission. You’re being forced to suppress your reaction to spiders but you haven’t learned how to deal with your fear of spiders at all. You haven’t learned an alternate behaviour or a coping skill to help you eliminate your fear of spiders. You’ve just learned that when I’m around it’s bad to scream (show your fear) and if you do, you’ll be punished. It’s even worse when you apply that rationale to dogs because they don’t speak our language. At least I can let you know, verbally, that I’m going to shock you if you show any reaction to spiders. You can clearly understand what I’m going to do and actively work to avoid it. Dogs just get shocked – no warning, no explanation – no fair.

“But the shock isn’t supposed to really hurt”, you say; “I’ve tried it on my own arm and it’s just a tingle or a small buzz”, you claim; “The shock just startles, it doesn’t hurt at all”, your so-called trainer claims.

I have a big problem with these statements. You cannot possibly know how something feels to someone else – animal or human – period – no argument – it’s impossible. Here’s a human scenario: my husband gives me a high-five after a recent Vancouver Canuck’s win. “Ow – that hurt”, I yelp! “That didn’t hurt”, my husband says, “I barely touched you at all!”

Let’s think about this. It really did sting when he slapped my open palm with his own. Why did it hurt? Maybe I have extremely sensitive or extremely thin skin; maybe I have an unusually low pain threshold; maybe my husband has an unusually high pain threshold; maybe the act of him sweeping his open palm toward me when I wasn’t expecting it frightened me so badly that my body registered it as pain. Who knows and why does it matter? To me, it hurt and that’s the only fact worth noting. He cannot tell me it didn’t hurt – it’s impossible for him to know that. He can feel that it shouldn’t have hurt or think I’m being overly dramatic – but that’s different. Because we share the same language, I can attempt to explain to him how it felt – but he still can’t really know because he didn’t feel what I felt. Dogs feel pain and emotions too – that’s a fact.

As a trainer, I have met many dogs who have had shock collars on or live in yards with electric fencing systems (yes, that’s a shock collar too and every bit as damaging). Every single one of these dogs displayed unnecessary and abnormal degrees of anxiety, fear and reactive behaviour – every single one. There is no question in my mind that dogs find this type of treatment scary, hurtful or confusing. You can’t tell them that’s it’s just a “little tingle” or something that’s just meant to “startle” them – there is zero helpful information being communicated. Just like humans and any other type of animal, there are dogs who are more or less sensitive than others. I have met dogs (and have one myself) who will flinch or cower at a simple “uh, uh” spoken in a mild tone. This may not seem very punishing to us, but it is to them – their body language doesn’t lie, their behaviour doesn’t lie. That shock collar is painful, frightening and aversive to them whether we think it should be or not – it’s as simple as that. As Karen Pryor states in her book, “Reaching The Animal Mind”: “An aversive doesn’t have to be punishing, but a punishment is always aversive”. Ruining your hairstyle in a sudden rain shower is aversive but it’s not punishing – it was an unintended event. But getting a sudden spray of water in the face from someone when you make a rude comment is a punishment and is definitely aversive.

This article isn’t just my opinion – there are many facts stated here. But, you don’t have to believe me, you can do your own research – there is tons of it out there. If you are considering using such a damaging piece of equipment like a shock collar, doesn’t your dog deserve to have you put the time and effort into finding out the truth?

• Read biologist Raymond and Lorna Coppingers’ book, “Dogs – A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behaviour and Evolution”.
• Read some of the articles written by David Mech, renowned wolf researcher and his explanation of the new terminology of “Parent Pair” replacing the old and inaccurate terminology “Alpha” or “Dominant”.
• Read the beautifully written book on dogs and their emotions, “For The Love of a Dog” by Dr. Patricia McConnell.
• Read the remarkable book, “Reaching The Animal Mind” by renowned marine mammal trainer and animal behaviourist Karen Pryor.
• Talk to Steve White, a police officer working in the canine unit in his area who travels around the country lecturing and helping police departments train dogs for use in police work using a clicker – that’s right, there are dogs working with the police who have been successfully trained to track, chase, bite, hold and release with positive reinforcement.

I do believe that there are many, many pet dog owners who truly believe they are doing the best for their dogs and believe they have received good advice when they strap on a shock collar. I hope with all my heart that pet owners search harder for the best advice, the most humane advice and think long and hard about what they want for their companion animals.

I also believe that there are people out there who are attracted to the apparent convenience of shock collars and are willing to disregard the inhumane aspect, and I find this very sad and discouraging. Most alarming of all is that I know, without question, that there are people out there who truly enjoy causing pain and fear and who get tremendous reinforcement from doing terrible things to people and animals – I’ve met a few. Unfortunately, many terrible things and “training methods” are considered “legal” or are not considered at all when it comes to animals and this needs very urgently to be changed. Please be part of the solution not part of the problem.

Something to keep in mind when you consider hiring a trainer to work with you and your dog: dog training is an unregulated profession at present. Anyone can claim to be a dog trainer; anyone can claim to be an animal behaviourist; anyone can open a dog training school; and anyone can claim the title of “certified dog trainer” or “certified dog behaviourist”.

There are many great trainers and great facilities offering courses for trainers and behaviourists based on correct learning theory, current science and well-researched information. But you need to be careful, you need to inform yourself and you need to know exactly what you want for your dog. Your dog has no choice but to depend on you.

Any good trainer should be open about the methods they use and should welcome you to attend some of their classes before asking you to commit to them. You should be completely comfortable with how they treat the dogs in their care, and the dogs, themselves, should show you how happy they are to be there and working (or not). I also believe, as with any profession, a dog trainer should be constantly updating their skill and education every way they can – keeping on top of what’s new and what’s changing.

A good place to start to look for a trainer or some good information is to take a look at the website for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (www.apdt.com). This is an organization that is at the forefront of the movement to positive reinforcement dog training methods. It is a large group full of well-known, highly educated and knowledgeable individuals who work hard to provide great resources for pet dog owners. They offer membership to any trainer, promote positive methods and have a continuing education path for trainers to keep themselves up to date and correctly informed. Two other great resources for books, DVDs, video clips and information on positive training methods is www.dogwise.com and www.dogstardaily.com.

Article Submitted By:

Valerie Barry
Professional Dog Trainer
North Vancouver, BC, Canada
www.inpartnershipwithdogs.com

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THE WALK ME SLIP HARNESS: TRAINING & RESTRAINING WITHOUT PAIN

We have known for a very long time that using the neck and head area to control a dog was not in the animal's best interests. We'd heard many horror stories over the years of the damage caused to the soft tissue areas of the neck, esophagus, trachea, spinal cord and skeletal structures. Often Vets would lament the use of damaging collars in training and the injuries they caused from jerking or pulling on the attached leash. The barbaric shock collar is capable of disturbing physical damage as well but reigns supreme for the mental anguish it induces. Yet, throughout the world the use of such equipment has remained the norm.

It's easy to just blame the dog. He is too boisterous, and too out of control! He's hurting himself. We shudder to think how many dogs out there have grown up with permanent and painful damage to their spines from the use of so called training collars and dog training leashes. One of the most important lessons one can learn is to work with a dog's personality and characteristics. A dog's temperament needs to be understood, as it can be key to how the dog handler can effectively get their messages understood in the easiest and fastest way possible.

It was our beloved Blue Healer that would sooner choke himself to death than walk quietly on leash that was the motivation for our unsuccessful search but successful design of a better alternative. We tried every dog harness on the market in order to find a good alternative to the collar and leash. They all lacked the ability to let us 'humanely' convey a clear and consistent message to our dogs. We found that fixed harnesses were inadequate for controlling and training an exuberant dog. They actually encouraged the dog to pull more by setting him/herself against the comfy harness. This was the very Behaviour we were trying to discourage.

Hence, the invention of the Walk-Me Slip Harness. The slip harness is suitable for any dog, is easy to use, spreads pressure evenly around a dog's body, and is comfy, safe and humane. It is fully adjustable with the simple slide of a buckle to adjust for the amount of 'Slip' required. It also easily converts from a 'Slip' Harness to a standard 'Fixed' position walking harness. Once your lesson is over, the Walk-Me Slip Harness can be used in a normal 'fixed' position as a walking harness, saving you the expense of having to buy two different products.

If you thInk this is the right harness for you and your dog you can review more information and buy your harness at Walk Me Slip Harness

Our Mission Is To Help Dogs by "Training & Restraining Without Pain"

Kate Burgess & Lou-ann Atkinson, owners of Walk-Me Slip Harness

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TRAIN WITHOUT PAIN OR FEAR

by Alice Fisher CPDT-KA
DOGSmart Training Systems Ltd.

The choice of training without inflicting pain or fear on another being waS a conscious decision by DOGSmart. We had to actively seek out alternatives by getting an education in how dogs learn. (Burch, Bailey)The pleasure centre in the brain has to be activated for dogs to learn. Lure/Reward training (Dunbar) and Clicker training (Skinner, Pryor) are 2 types of positive reinforcement training that are not based on fear or punishment.

People have been told that they need to train by physically dominating and "correcting" a dog through physical punishment. They may use their hand, a leash, a choke chain, a pinch collar, e- collar/shock collar or even a head halter, harness or plain collar. Any tool can be punishing. Using physical punishment can be detrimental to the physical and mental health of any being.

We, at DOGSmart, do not use choke chains, pinch collars, shock collars and even martingales (1/4 chokes). The very nature of their physical designs and the corresponding mental mindset encourages physical punishment. Compulsive training is not new nor is it science based. It has, by its history and tradition, legitimized physical punishment. It is a tradition of abuse that has been passed on since dogs domesticated themselves. (Coppinger) It is founded in the belief that dogs need to be broken of their bad or stubborn behaviours. It is training with the emphasis on what the dog did wrong. Does this work? Does physical punishment decrease the behaviour the dog is doing? At what cost? This method of punishment requires pin point accuracy in timing, duration and level of intensity. Few humans outside of a laboratory have this skill. If it is truly a correction it should also instruct as to what behaviour you wanted the dog to do, otherwise it is abuse.

We, dog owners, do not live in a laboratory. Dog owners/guardians definitions of what behaviour they want to get rid of are very vague. Often they are mixed messages. The dog may jump up and be petted when you want you to, but not when you don't want to. Is a "sit" understood as a sit beside or sit at a distance or a sit if they are in another room? Should the dog be punished for not understanding that sit while you are jumping up or running around is still a "Sit"? Do we physically punish someone trying to learn a second language?

The action of choking stops either air to the lungs or blood to the brain. It also involves some whiplash to the spine. These devices give the human permission and encouragement to use these punishments. For people using pinch collars they have been told they are more humane for the dog as less pressure is required to "correct" the dog. I have seen dogs with open sores on their necks where the points of the pinch have gone through their skin. I don't think that is more humane.

Operant conditioning, "clicker training" is science based training (Pryor) using a clicker (mechanical devise that makes a click sound) paired with a reward. The dog learns to offer behaviours and the human gets to let the dog know when they choose the right one. Already we are communicating on a different level -at both ends of the leash. Yes, the reward is food. People who think they must use forever need to know that once the behaviour has been taught in various combinations food is replaced with other rewards such as tugging, playing, petting, praise or permission to do something the dog wants to do.

Teaching, using operant conditioning, is rewarding for both parties. Operant conditioning is as old as Skinner and as new as TAG teaching and it is scientifically proven to work outside any laboratory. We train without pain or fear at DOGSmart Training Systems.

Alice Fisher, CPDT-KA, Vancouver, B.C. Canada
DogSmart Training

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THE ALPHA SYNDROME – ABOUT LEADERSHIP AND RANK ORDER IN DOGS

Anders Hallgren

Published 2006 - 96 pages

"You are insufficient as a leader," "don't let the dog become the alfa individual," "show the dog who is in charge" – you probably have heard these words. But they are wrong!"

The leadership concept has been misunderstood and misused and this book goes through it from start to finish. Here you find the latest ethological findings and an intriguing theory about what lies behind status relations among pack living animals. In short: forget about leadership and concentrate instead upon your role as a trainer. No matter what people say – you can be as nice as you want to and spoil your dog. It doesn't see you as less a leader anyway.

AVSAB - POSITION STATEMENT ON THE USE OF DOMINANCE THEORY

excerpt… The AVSAB recommends that veterinarians not refer clients to trainers or behavior consultants who coach and advocate dominance hierarchy theory and the subsequent confrontational training that follows from it.

American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior ©2008, www.AVSABonline.org

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LOOKING FOR A DOG TRAINER - HSUS WARNS BEWARE OF ABUSIVE TRAINING METHODS

THE HUMANE SOCIETY OF THE UNITED STATES WARNS:

BEWARE OF ABUSIVE TRAINING METHODS

January 9, 2007

WASHINGTON -- Dog owners often seek professional advice when it comes to training their animal companion and there are many options available. From DVDs, books and television programs, to local dog trainers offering private lessons and group classes, consumers have choices about the methods and styles in which they want to raise their pup.

Are you supposed to be your dog's parent or pack leader? Do you want your dog to be an obedience champ or do you just need him to stop jumping on strangers? What are the boundaries you want set?

According to Stephanie Shain, director of outreach for companion animals for The HSUS, "Just like with human communications and psychology, there are varied philosophies, methods and approaches when it comes to communicating with your dog. It is important to define your goals and find a system that works best – and safely -- for you. Unfortunately, we know of many cases in which a private trainer's methods were abusive and the animal was injured or killed." Shain warns that if people do choose to work with a trainer, they must be sure that the trainer's methods are safe. The HSUS offers these tips to help ensure that your dog is trained safely and successfully, as well as the red flags that may signal abusive training.

Red Flags:

• Trainers should never use electronic aids like shock collars which will hurt your dog and can damage your bond with him.
• Rubbing your dog's nose in an "accident" will never work and will only confuse your dog. This method is harmful, unnecessary, unsanitary, and shows your dog that you do things to him that are scary and unpleasant.
• Screaming is not training. While a confident tone of voice is helpful, yelling may work against you by instilling fear in the dog. Dogs will learn better when they feel safe and secure. Screaming takes that feeling away.
• If your dog is afraid of a trainer, you should be too. A dog who is not normally fearful should not be cowering or whimpering around a trainer. If your dog is not comfortable, the training will not be successful and you should stop the session immediately.
• Never let a trainer dominate you or your dog. People who try to physically dominate their dogs may get bitten. Trainers should never sit on, kneel on, or otherwise force your dog onto his back. Do not let anyone talk you into doing this. Your dog may try to bite or could get seriously injured from this process.
• Choking is not training. Always avoid the use of choke-type collars and trainers who would lift a dog off of the ground by his collar. Recent scientific studies show that choke collars cause injury. Even if the trainer uses a regular collar or harness, they should never yank your dog around on the leash.
• "Don't worry, he's fine," is something a trainer should never have to say. If your trainer is constantly reassuring you that their methods are safe, it's time to look for another trainer. Training techniques should always appear safe without reassurances.
• Physical violence is unacceptable. This may seem obvious, but never let a trainer hit or kick your dog. Such methods are ineffective, dangerous, and possibly illegal. Training should never be abusive.
• Bleeding is bad. Your dog should never bleed, vomit, or foam at the mouth as the result of a training session. If any of these things occur, contact your veterinarian immediately. Injuries should not be a part of a training session.
• Trust your instincts. If you are ever concerned or uncomfortable with anything that your trainer is doing to your dog, end the session. Your dog depends on you to keep him safe, and you have an obligation to speak up to protect him.

For more information visit www.hsus.org or www.puppybuyersguide.org.

The Humane Society of the United States is the nation's largest animal protection organization with nearly 10 million members and constituents. The HSUS is a mainstream voice for aaa, with active programs in companion animals, disaster preparedness and response, wildlife and habitat protection, marine mammals, animals in research, equine protection and farm animal welfare. The HSUS protects all animals through education, investigation, litigation, legislation, advocacy and field work. The nonprofit organization is based in Washington and has field representatives and offices across the country.

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BCSPCA - UNDERSTANDING CANINE BEHAVIOR

Sept 9, 2009

Preventing or Reducing Behaviour Problems

UNDERSTANDING CANINE BEHAVIOUR

Preventing or reducing behaviour problems ensures that you and your dog will have a satisfying relationship rather than a life full of anxiety, worries and frustration. First you must understand that some dogs are more prone to certain behaviour problems because of their temperament and have learned to respond a certain way to various situations. While you can help most dogs be behaviourally healthy and well-mannered, in some cases you may need the help of a qualified behaviourist, trainer or veterinarian. Understanding dog behaviour means fewer misunderstandings such as "he's mad at me, that's why he pees on my bed." It also means less disappointment because of unrealistic expectations. Learn how to observe, interpret, and respond appropriately to your dog's body language. Finally, understanding the needs of dogs regarding daily care - including feeding, exercise, interactions with people and other animals will help you meet your dog's needs.

UNDERSTANDING CANINE EMOTION

Emotions play an important role in how your dog behaves. Destructive behaviour when left alone can be a sign of anxiety, and avoidance and aggression are often motivated by fear. Once you understand the emotional state such as anxiety, fear or frustration, you can change his emotional response into a positive emotion for a particular situation and his behaviour will improve. Instead of trying to change the emotion of the dog (for example from fear to pleasure), many people train their dog to obey a command when the dogs reacts negatively (example: making a dog sit instead of lunging at people). This may make him behave appropriately but he still feels scared or threatened and therefore he is still stressed. Changing the reaction to a person, animal or situation by exposing him to the situation and making it have a positive outcome (person giving the dog treats every time the dog sees the person he normally fears) is a more productive way to change a dogs behaviour because it is changing his response from fear to happy anticipation.

UNDERSTANDING HOW YOUR BEHAVIOUR AFFECTS YOUR DOG

Many guardians unknowingly play a significant role in the development of their dog's behaviour problem. Ask yourself if you giving your dog attention when he misbehaves rather than when he behaves properly.

• Do you give your dog clear and consistent instructions about what you expect of him?
• Do you apply consistent consequences or only address a problem sometimes and not at other times?
• Are you giving your dog a chance to experience success or are you setting him up to display undesirable behaviour and punish him instead?

Effective and Humane Ways to Change Behaviour

Training a dog to change his behaviour should be done using positive or negative consequences to a behaviour. The negative consequence should never be physical or involve fear. Positive consequences: Follow the desired behaviour with something the dog finds rewarding (for example, give a treat when dog sits to greet someone at the door). Behaviour of sitting increases in frequency. Negative consequences: Follow the undesired behaviour with the removal of a reward (for example, remove your attention by turning away from the dog when he barks for attention). Behaviour decreases in frequency. *Temporary withdrawal of attention is one of the most humane and effective consequence for reducing unwanted behaviour. Physical or verbal consequences can result in a dog that may become fearful and will not be as eager to work with you. The use of positive consequences to establish desired behaviours and negative consequences to discourage unwanted behaviours is usually sufficient to have a well-behaved dog. However, in some circumstances, if the dog continues to not respond appropriately you should seek help from a qualified professional.

HAVE FUN, FUN, FUN!

Learning new things should be a fun experience for you and your dog. Clicker training is highly recommended by the BC SPCA. It is easy to learn for you and your dog. It is cheap and very effective. Simply associate the click with a food reward in your first session (click first and treat after). Once your dog knows that the click means a reward is coming you can use it to "Shape or capture " wanted behaviour or lure him into a desired position.

• Shaping: When you Shape new behaviours, you reward your dog for each closer approximation to the desired behaviour. For example, if you want to teach your dog to retrieve an object using shaping, first you might reward him for just sniffing it. Then reward him for picking it up. Finally, you would reward him for bringing the object to you. Shaping is also called successive approximation.
• Capturing: Capturing involves waiting for your dog to perform a behaviour that you wish to strengthen. The moment he performs the desired behaviour without incentive, click and reward him. For example, if you wanted to teach your dog to lie down using capturing, you would wait until he chooses to lie down, then click (using a clicker to mark the exact moment of the desired behaviour) and reward him.
• Luring: Some dogs, particularly puppies may need a little help to understand what you want them to do. It is better to lure a dog into position rather than pushing his body. Luring means putting a treat in front of the dog's nose and guiding him into the desired position. For example, if you want to teach your dog to sit using a lure, you hold the treat in front of your dog and move it in an upward arc. If your dog follows this movement, he will finish in the Sit position; then you click and give a treat.

*There are many good books available to help you clicker train your dog. Click here to see our recommended resources.

VETERINARIAN HELP

Many behaviour problems that do not get solved with training alone may be because the dog has a disease that causes him to behave a certain way. Some emotional or behaviour problems are too serious. There are a variety of drug therapies that can be used in conjunction with training. Ask your veterinarian.

REMEMBER

Positive, humane methods are proven and effective training techniques to increase positive behaviour and decrease negative behaviour. It does not mean that you must tolerate bad behaviour. While food should not be used as a bribe, it is an important tool for indicating to your dog that he has done well. It should be used like a paycheque for work well done. If food does not motivate your dog find a toy or a positive verbal response that will make him want to do more. A dog that has learned a behaviour in one context will not necessarily perform it in another. Dog should be given the opportunity to perform the behaviour in a range of different contexts. CAUTION: The use of negative reinforcement (punishment) should always be as mild as possible and never involve pain or intimidation. Negative reinforcement should only be applied when all other methods failed and always under the supervision of a qualified professional. Established in 1898 The British Columbia Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (BC SPCA) was formed as a non-profit organization dedicated to protecting and enhancing the quality of life for domestic, farm and wild animals in BC.

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THE BEST FRIENDS ANIMAL SOCIETY-RELATIONSHIP BASED TRAINING

POSITION STATEMENT
Relationship-Based Training

Best Friends believes that dog training built on a positive relationship is the most kind – and also the most effective – method of training. When you have a positive relationship with the dog, you have the animal's trust, and he/she wants to spend time with you and work with you. Training based on punishment or discipline negates any sort of positive relationship you might develop with the animal. By reinforcing behaviors that you like and want to continue seeing, you set the dog up for success. Positive relationship-based training is effective for teaching new behaviors or changing current behavior for any physically and mentally healthy animal. Regardless of an animal's age and past experiences, positive training methods give an animal the best chance for success at living happily and comfortably in our hectic human world. What is relationship-based training? It is a method of training that uses the positive relationship between the trainer and the dog to achieve results that benefit both the dog and the trainer, while at the same time enhancing and strengthening their relationship. Here are some of the basic principles:

• The animal's immediate needs come first. Is the animal injured, ill, fearful, frustrated, hungry, thirsty, needing to eliminate? Put off training until the animal's needs have been met and he/she can concentrate on the training exercise.
• Learn to interpret animals' body language. There are telltale signs that let you know how the animal is feeling – whether it's joy, anger, fear, frustration or some other emotion. Understanding body language improves communication between people and animals, and helps keep both animals and people safe.
• Find out what motivates the animal (affection, treats) and use it to your advantage.
• Use positive reinforcement to encourage behavior you like. You can elicit and reinforce desired behavior through the techniques of capturing, shaping and targeting. "Capturing" appropriate behavior means using praise and other rewards to encourage recurrence of the behavior. "Shaping" involves rewarding each tiny bit of progress that the dog makes toward behavior you want. "Targeting" is a technique that helps to shape a dog's behavior by getting him to focus on a "target" and then perform a certain behavior.
• Punishment is not necessary for eliminating undesirable behaviors. Instead, ignore the behavior and/or teach incompatible behaviors. For example, teach the dog to sit for a greeting rather than jumping up – it's difficult for him to do both. To reinforce the desired behavior, reward with praise or treats. In contrast to punishment-based training, this approach supports the positive relationship between you and the dog.
• Prevent the animal's ability to continue practicing unwanted behaviors by controlling the environment and controlling the dog's exposure. For example, distract the dog or limit access to a window, door or fence line if there are inappropriate behaviors happening there.
• Supervise the animal carefully to set her up for success. You can avoid or prevent unwanted behaviors by simply being aware of what your dog is doing. For example, if a new dog or puppy is not house-trained, don't allow her the full run of the house until she has been house-trained. Giving a dog too much freedom can set her up for failure.
• Practice, practice, practice! Don't wait for the occasional chance to work on modifying the animal's behavior. Instead, create behavior modification opportunities so you can help the dog become more comfortable.
• Use distraction to take the dog's attention off an anxiety-provoking situation. For example, if your dog is afraid of children and you see a child walking toward your dog, you can distract the dog with praise or treats before the child approaches and as the child is passing. If you use this technique routinely, meeting children will become less and less stressful for the dog. In some cases, it may even become enjoyable.

Positive trainers also have realistic expectations. When training animals, they use patience – they understand that animals are not born knowing how to fit into our human lives. Most adult dogs have not been properly taught how to be part of a loving human family. Even if they have been in a loving home, they may still lack the social skills to be comfortable around strangers and in new situations. Expecting an animal to know everything is unrealistic and punishing an animal for not knowing something is unfair. In relationship-based training, every animal is seen as an individual and the trainer works with the animal on that basis. There are training methods that Best Friends chooses not to use after seeing their detrimental effects on animals. These methods can cause confusion in the animal, lack of trust, breakdown of the relationship, physical injury, fear and so-called "unpredictable" behavior. Examples include:

• Dominance and physical force:
  • Pushing a dog into a sit or down position
  • Alpha rolls
  • Physical punishment (hitting, kicking, slapping, hanging, finger jabs)
• Leash corrections
• Harsh tones, verbal reprimands
• Methods that rely on inflicting pain, such as pinch/prong collars and choke chains

Besides the negative effect on the animals, and the fact that these techniques don't work over the long-term, these methods have resulted in injury to people and death to dogs. How? People who use these techniques are injured when the dogs fight back by biting. It's not uncommon for these people to euthanize their dogs after deciding they could no longer trust them.

Finally, the success rate for positive, relationship-based training greatly exceeds that of punishment- or discipline-based training. Many, many research studies – dating back to Pavlov's famous experiments with dogs – have confirmed that positive reinforcement techniques deliver the most effective and reliable training results.

Best Friends Animal Society is guided by a simple philosophy: kindness to animals builds a better world for all of us. Best Friends' No More Homeless Pets campaign is a grassroots effort to place dogs and cats considered "unadoptable" into good homes, and to reduce the number of unwanted pets through effective spay and neuter programs.

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PETA - ELECTRONIC FENCES

Electronic Fences

Dogs whose yards are surrounded by electronic fences may develop fear or aggression aimed at what they believe is the source of the shock (kids riding by on bikes, the mail carrier, the dog next door, etc.). Dogs have been known to run through electronic barriers when frightened by fireworks or chasing a squirrel and then be too scared to cross back through the barrier.

Electronic fences may actually encourage animals to try to escape. Since dogs only suffer painful shocks in the yard, they may associate the shock with the yard itself—once they get out of the yard, the pain goes away. The fact that the pain returns when they try to reenter the yard can cause dogs to believe that they are being punished for returning home.

Even when animals are confined within certain boundaries of an electronic fence, they are still in danger of attacks by roaming dogs, cruel humans, or other animals, who can freely enter the property. Electronic fences are a dog thief's dream come true!

Humane and Safe Boundaries

The most effective way to keep your dog safely confined to your property is to keep him or her inside the house when you aren't home and allow him or her outside only under close supervision on a leash or in a securely fenced enclosure

Some Fencing Guidelines

A 6-foot privacy fence is best, preventing your dog or intruders from scaling it.

Wood or vinyl fencing is optimal for privacy, but chain link is less expensive. (Small windows covered with wire mesh can be cut into wooden fences to allow dogs to see out.)

Replace a short fence with a taller one, or add an extension to the top.

Line the fence with rocks or a cement-filled trench to prevent digging.

If you cannot afford a fence, have a yard that would be difficult to fence, or live in a condominium or townhouse where fences are not allowed, consider letting your dog out only on a leash and taking him or her to a fenced dog park or to a friend's fenced yard for play and exercise. You may also want to consult a certified dog behaviorist about teaching your dog to stay within boundaries through the use of positive reinforcement.

Living With Barking Dogs

Dogs bark for a variety of reasons but mainly because of boredom, distress, separation anxiety, and defense of their territory. Young dogs, small or active breeds, and dogs who are chained up or left outside most of the time are more likely to bark. For humane and safety reasons, as well as to maintain good relations with your neighbors, it is best to keep your dog indoors when you are not at home. Dogs are less likely to bark indoors, and any barking that they do indoors is less likely to be loud enough to disturb the neighbors. Tips to Prevent Boredom-Related Barking Take your dog for two or three walks per day; family members, trusted neighbors, or professional dogwalkers can help during the workday.

Allow your dog least five opportunities to relieve him- or herself during a day.

Provide plenty of chew toys; rotate them and provide new ones.

Give your dog a toy that can be filled with treats; working to get the treats out will provide mental and physical stimulation.

Agility and flyball courses are fun and a great outlet for a dog's energy.

Barking at intruders or frightening noises is a natural behavior for dogs and should not be totally forbidden. Tips to Prevent Excessive Barking at Strangers or Noises Take your dog out daily to interact and socialize with other people. Praise him or her for friendliness.

When people visit your house, give your dog a treat or toy so that he or she associates guests with something positive.

When something frightens your dog, encourage him or her to sit, lie down, or play with a toy. A humane dog trainer or certified behaviorist will be able to provide more tips on desensitizing your dog to frightening sounds. If your dog's situation is severe, the behaviorist may suggest that you consider consulting your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medications that can help calm your dog.

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), has more than 2.0 million members and supporters. PETA focuses its attention on the four areas in which the largest numbers of animals suffer the most intensely for the longest periods of time: on factory farms, in laboratories, in the clothing trade, and in the entertainment industry. PETA works through public education, cruelty investigations, research, animal rescue, legislation, special events, celebrity involvement, and protest campaigns.

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Together we can protect the most vulnerable among us by disabling the abuser. Ban outright the sale and use of shock collars on all animals. Please sign Petition